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Women on the high seas

Three women working in the Merchant Navy have battled sexism, back-breaking work and unprecedented challenges in the line of duty.
by Nidhi Qazi

Part 1 of the ‘Women’s Day’ series.

A woman on the seas? Now, that’s a novel idea. But, don’t let Ankita Srivastava, Mandira Nayak and Neha Rao hear you say that.

The field of marine engineering is a highly competitive and tough one, peopled as it is with men who are spunky and difficult to faze. So how does a woman enter this hallowed space, and more to the point, how does she survive?

The Merchant Navy is a field fleet of merchant vessels that areused for transporting cargo and has two departments – the Navigation department, responsible for safely taking the ship from one place to another, and the Engine department, responsible for safe operation and maintenance of all the machinery (both mechanical and electrical) on board the ship.

So who are Ankita, Mandira and Neha?

The 30-something Ankita, based in Lucknow, is currently working with Campbell Shipping as Chief Engineer. She did her Marine Engineering from Tolani Maritime Institute, Pune. “I started my career as an Engine Cadet and after completing my sea time as Junior Engineer, I passed my Class 4 exam and subsequently the Class 2 and Class 1 exam. These exams are conducted by DG Shipping, India. Anyone seeking promotion to various ranks needs to clear these exams and acquire licenses to sail on the higher ranks.”

Says 28-year-old Mandira, who hails from Madhubani district of Bihar, “I am a Seismic Engineer, in WesternGeco Company which provides seismic acquisition technologies and techniques for subsurface imaging in any environment.” She has been an engineer since August 2007.

28-year old Neha, a resident of Mumbai, has been on the ship’s Maintenance Department which looks after the machineries for propulsion, electricity generation, air conditioning, refrigeration, sewage treatment, making fresh water, etc. “I started as an Engine Cadet, went on to become Junior Engineer and then Fourth Engineer. As a Fourth Engineer, I was in charge of the generators so had to carry out maintenance and repair on it. I was also in-charge of bunker operations. Bunker is the fuel of the ship. That is separate from the cargo that we carry. I was responsible for the loading operations of the bunker fuel and also its day-to-day monitoring.”

While Ankita and Mandira are still in the same field, Neha has shifted gears to pursue another career option.

The early days

While all three agree that the job is very different and challenging since no two days are the same, they also agree that as women, the challenges are compounded by other factors.

As Neha puts it, “I used to get too much attention from my colleagues. I was like a celebrity on the ship. I couldn’t fart without the whole ship (25 people) knowing about it. Half the time people kept falling in love with me! On a serious note, it is very tough to live normally when you know you are being scrutinised and judged more because you are a woman.”

In Mandira’s experience, since the field is male-dominated, there is constant pressure to perform in terms of physical strength and technical competence. “Even companies arriving for college placements were not keen on recruiting girls. We had to push ourselves harder to prove our competence.” She mentions that the general perception is that girls are not good at technical jobs and to further this, “our batchmates would tell us, ‘Seat kha rahi ho tum log, kyun ho yahan?’”

“But one needs to be strong willed and determined to not let all these perceptions and challenges affect you. If you enjoy your work, there are no limits to what you can learn and achieve. As a woman, what is important is to know your limits, have the required proper knowledge, skills and the right attitude,” says Ankita.

Already under constant questioning from people on the ship, matters were no different off it. People would make comments like, ‘Ship pe safe nahin hota, kitne aadmiyon ke beech rahegi?’ “People didn’t even know the nature of our work, but would still comment,” says Neha.

A typical day at work

Ankita’s usual day starts with the ship sailing from 7 to 8 am. “Everyone in the engine department meets in the control room to discuss the maintenance plan for the day. After going through various procedures and discussions, we go on to complete our job.” A job can be completed in a short while, whereas another job or some unforeseen problem can demand more time. She adds, “If all goes well, the day ends at around 6 pm. By that time, we are free and have ample time to enjoy with our shipmates, reading, watching movies, playing games, and hitting the gym – all of which are available on the ship. But when the ship is in port, the work can vary and can sometimes be very hectic as there can be inspections by authorities or maintenance of propulsion machinery or handling (operation and maintenance) of the cargo gear and other major jobs that have been planned.”

Neha’s typical day would start at 8 am with her reporting to the engine room. She would then be assigned the ‘Watch Task’, which involved either completion of maintenance work on generators or helping others with big machineries. “We would then break for lunch at 3 pm and again start the watch from 8 pm to 12 am,” she remembers.

However, the pressure to prove oneself is such that many fall into the trap of proving themselves so determinedly, that is sometimes exceeds the bounds of common sense.

Mandira recounts a case in point. “In our college practicals, for the tasks which were automated and required no manual work, boys would lift equipment to prove their strength. In our professors’ times, all tasks were to be done manually, but things had changed for us, but still the boys preferred doing the same manually in order to show that they were physically superior to us. In one such incident, a male professor sarcastically asked one of our female batchmates if she could lift a machine. She actually lifted it – it could otherwise be done through automation. Though nothing happened to her, it could have – she could have suffered a slip disc!”

What’s more, one’s partners need to be supportive if one has to succeed in this career. But that doesn’t always happen. “My ex-boyfriend would tell me, ‘There are girls who left sailing for their partners. Why can’t you?’” says Mandira.

Career high points…

Ankita’s career high points till now have been when she passed the exam for Chief Engineer’s license (Class 1) and got promoted later on. “I was aware that not many women had made it to that level and was happy that I was able to stay that long and make a place for myself in a male-dominated field,” she says.

Neha says, “My high point was when I cleared the Class 4 exams which we have to take before we can sail as independent Watchkeepers or Fourth Engineers. These exams were really difficult and I cleared them in a single try. I was also appreciated for my work a couple of times.”

…and the challenges…

“The biggest challenge is that you have to stay away from family and friends for months together. The job is physically and mentally demanding most of the times,” says Ankita.

Adds Mandira, “Being stuck in water for five weeks can be frustrating at times. Moreover, the 12-hour grill with operational and financial pressures in order to seek the company’s profitability keeps us busy and tired.” She adds that the nature of the job is such that one has to deal with rough weather, sea sickness, and disturbed sleep patterns on a regular basis.

Neha says, “I had to stay away from home, friends, boyfriend and any form of social life. Naturally, I would feel totally lost when I used to go back home – it was like the rest of the world had moved ahead and I was still six months behind.”

These factors aside, the engineers also face the dangers of natural calamities like hurricanes, high waves and pirates. As Mandira recounts, “Few months ago we lost a colleague in a heavy wave.” She adds, “We have to retrieve the ship gears in rough weather, and you may drown in the sea. Also, pirates are dangerous as they are everywhere and under the heavy influence of drugs and alcohol. We are trained to deal with them.”

Despite all the above challenges and perceptions, the career opens up a lot of space for experience and exposure, feel these women.

“Since my colleagues are from different nationalities, it is fun to be among a diverse group of co-employees. This is also a company strategy in order to prevent dominance of a particular nationality,” says Mandira. The field also offers the chance to travel the world.

As Ankita puts it, “At the end of the day, it gives a sense of achievement doing something the right way, of fixing things with your own hands. The satisfaction after trouble shooting a problem on your own gives a satisfaction which I think no other job can give. The effort, challenges and dangers aside, it’s all worth it.”

The Women’s Day series celebrates the spirit of women on the occasion of International Women’s Day on March 8 every year. Look out for Part 2 next: ‘Trust in God, but carry pepper spray’.

(Pictures courtesy Ankita Srivastava and Mandira Nayak)

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Nature in the midst of crowds: Maharashtra Nature Park

Lovely plants, awesome birds and seriously cool reptiles in close proximity to humans? It’s a jungle out there at Mahim!
by Adithi Muralidhar

Part 7 of the ‘Green Hangouts’ diaries

mnpLocated right in the middle of the city, the Maharashtra Nature Park (MNP), which was originally known as Mahim Nature Park, can be seen right behind the Dharavi Bus Depot. It is ironic that this park exists close to one of the most densely populated areas in the world!

What’s so special? The MNP has about 27 acres of functional area, most of which was a garbage dump earlier. The entire creek area behind the park was used as a dumping ground back in the 1970s. But by the 1980s, some of this area was declared as a bird sanctuary; soon enough, three decades later, MNP is one of the success stories of the city where nature has once again flourished!

The MNP has recorded close to 300 varieties of plants, 115 species of birds and quite a large number of insects. It is like a little green haven in the middle of the choked, polluted city. The forested area pretty much cuts down the vehicular sound that comes from the Bandra-Sion link road, right adjacent to one side of the park. You will find yourself in a tranquil state once you enter the park.

What to look for: If plants, birds or insects are not your thing, you can even sight some really cool reptiles here like the Common Cobra, Green Vine snake, Checkered Keelback, Rat snake, a few lizards and skinks, and an occasional rare sighting of the Indian Star Tortoise. Unfortunately, the serious habitat damage to the adjoining areas doesn’t support any mammal life. Apart from the intermittent sightings of the striped squirrel and a few species of bats, you are unlikely to come across any other mammal.

Currently the MNP also has an Education Centre, nursery, medicinal plant section and vermicomposting demonstration project, apart from the usual birding and butterfly trails. So if you are looking to get some information while you are the park, you can stop by these places! The park is often visited by loads of children who are part of various environment awareness groups.

Whether you want to go for a nice walk in the forest or do a nature-trail or just relax, MNP is one of the best places to go to…it’s an immediate get-away from the polluted city and it is quite accessible by road and rail.

Getting there: The nearest railway station to MNP is Sion station (Central line), and the nearest bus stop is Dharavi bus depot. The Park is open on all days from 9 am to 5 pm (except on Government holidays).

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This concludes our ‘Green Hangouts of Mumbai’ diaries. Apart from the seven places I mentioned earlier in the series, there are some more green spots to check out in and around the city. These are:

– Pherozshah Mehta Garden aka Kamla Nehru Park aka Hanging Gardens

– IIT Bombay campus, Powai

– Aarey milk colony, Goregaon

– Kharghar hills, Navi Mumbai (Note: It is better to go in large groups here, I hear it is a little unsafe, particularly for women)

– Bhandup petrol pump

– Palm Beach road mangrove stretch, Navi Mumbai (Note: Again, go in large groups.)

– Godrej Mangrove patch owned and maintained by Godrej and Soonabai Pirojsha Godrej marine ecology centre (SPGMEC) at Vikhroli. But here, you would need permission of the concerned authorities and plan a visit in advance.

– Wetlands of Uran

– Anushakti Nagar colony, where you can witness a small lake at the foothills (of Trombay hill chain) and where sightings of numerous birds and snakes is the norm. Usually, unless you are visiting someone who lives there, you are not likely to get entry into the colony as they have strict security set-ups in place.

– Karnala bird sanctuary, around 40 km from Panvel. One can hike/trek or go for nature trails here.

– Yeeor hills, ThaneTungareshwar, Virar

Adithi Muralidhar currently works in the field of science education research, in Mumbai. She is associated with Hypnale Research Station where she assists with various environment, wildlife conservation, education and community-related projects. She is a strong advocate of nature education.

This conclues ‘Green hangouts’, a series of stories celebrating Mumbai’s place in the green scheme of things, to coincide with Wildlife Week, which is celebrated from October 1 to 7 every year. 

(Pictures courtesy Vishal Rasal and Adithi Muralidhar. Reference: Sunjoy Monga (2005). Maharashtra Nature Park: Back to Nature. Naturecolours: Mumbai and MMRDA,  http://202.54.119.40/projects_mnp.htm)

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The garden of our collective childhood: Rani baug

Most of us are familiar with this garden since our childhood. It still holds a special place in our hearts.
by Adithi Muralidhar

Part 6 of the ‘Green Hangouts’ diaries

I remember going to Victoria Gardens as part of one of my primary class school picnic destinations. All that we did was – go there in a bus, sit down under a large tree, eat our packed dabbas, and come back home! I remember the place being quite deserted, but quite green. During my more recent trips there, I realised the place was still green (phew!) but it was no longer deserted – I still don’t know whether it’s a good or a bad thing!

ranibaugOne of the main things that I vividly remember were the two huge baobab trees at the entrance of the garden. Often known as the Tree of Life, the Baobabs have origins in Africa and are trees that can live for almost 3,000 years. Those two trees might have witnessed the phenomenal changes that have taken place over the years in that area of Mumbai.

What’s so special? Often cited as the city’s largest ‘open-green-public’ space, the Rani Baug spreads over an area that is close to 50 acres (give or take a few). Since the time the park was open to the public in 1862, the Rani Baug has faced several pressures from the city’s ever increasing urbanisation. Negligence, poor maintenance, pending infrastructure projects, financial aspects and deforestation are some of the major challenges faced by the park even today. This fairly large garden is home to over 3,000 trees (276 species and around 500+ species of plants, shrubs and climbers) besides serving as the habitat for a large number of birds and insects. Some of the rare and endangered trees found here are the Pride of Burma, Alligator apple tree, Brazilian Ironwood and Colville’s Glory, to name a few.

One part of the garden was transformed into a zoo and efforts have been made to revamp the current status of the zoo infrastructure. But this has posed a serious threat to the existing ranibaug-2-vishalbotanical garden. In fact, to counter the multi-crore proposed project of BMC to revamp the zoo, an (all-Mumbaikar-woman) action committee ‘Save Rani Bagh Botanical Garden Action Committee’ was formed. They were successful in their efforts, as the Central Zoo Authority (CZA) overruled the civic body’s ambitious plan to revamp the Byculla zoo (See these articles for more information on the subject here)

Conferred with Grade II-B status in the Schedule of Heritage Regulations for Greater Bombay, 1995, Rani Baug is Mumbai’s one and only heritage botanical garden. This place is also a delight for students of architecture, as the garden layout is typical of the Renaissance axial planning. To most Mumbaikars, however, this is a garden that occupies a special place in our hearts, like childhood memories tend to do. That this space is green and rich in terms of nature and history also helps!

Getting there: The nearest railway station is Byculla station (Central line). The park is open six days a week from 10 am to 6 pm.

Adithi Muralidhar currently works in the field of science education research, in Mumbai. She is associated with Hypnale Research Station where she assists with various environment, wildlife conservation, education and community-related projects. She is a strong advocate of nature education.

‘Green hangouts’ is a series of stories celebrating Mumbai’s place in the green scheme of things, to coincide with Wildlife Week, which is celebrated from October 1 to 7 every year. 

(Pictures courtesy Vishal Rasal. For more reading on Rani Baug, see http://www.saveranibagh.org/frontlineArticle.php. References: Bombay Natural History Society (2012). Rani Baug 150 years: Veermata Jijabai Bhosale Udyan and Zoo, Oxford University Press)

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A haven for butterflies – Ovalekarwadi butterfly garden

Imagine a spot of green that has the most beautiful butterflies flitting in and out constantly – and in Mumbai!
by Adithi Muralidhar

Part 5 of the ‘Green Hangouts’ diaries

I had only heard of this place… and not very long ago, I was ‘invited’ to join the Fovalekarwadiacebook page of this unique garden (https://www.facebook.com/ovalekarwadi). Soon I could hear more discussions and praises for this garden and then I got curious! Obviously these were not just rumours… they were not the momentary excitement people have, that lasts as long as fizz in an open soda bottle. There was definitely something to the buzz about this mystery garden located off Ghodbunder road, a road known to be lined with skyscrapers and industries!

Why a butterfly garden? Ovalekarwadi butterfly garden was the brainchild of Rajendra Ovalekar, a physical education teacher by profession. Rajendra had a strong inclination for being close to nature. Particularly intrigued by butterflies, he decided to set up a garden that would exclusively be home to these fluttering beauties.

With help from friends and family, he created the Ovalekarwadi in his two-and-half-acre farmland located close to Owalagaon. Sheltering over 120 species of butterflies, the Ovalekarwadi has now become a famous hotspot for nature lovers from all over the city.

I had the opportunity to see Rajendra give a small presentation about his garden during a recent seminar held at CEC in Goregaon (September 2013). In his 15-minute interaction with all of us, his love and commitment to the garden really stood out. He explained how this garden came about and the effort it took for him to make this place “attractive and welcoming” to these 100 species of butterflies. Maintaining the place was not a simple task.

He explained how he uses old discarded fruit as a source of food for these butterflies – he stuffs the fruit pulp in small metallic cages (to keep away birds from feeding on it) and places these nectar houses all over the garden to attract the insects.

One can also learn more about the life-cycle of butterflies at the garden by direct observation. For example, you will come across all the stages of the butterfly’s life cycle here – the egg, pupa, cocoon and final adult. You can spend the whole day just watching, observing and recording butterfly behaviour. Photographers are another group of people who love to frequent this place. It is so difficult to capture these wavering beauties, it takes you hours to get a great shot. But at the Ovalekarwadi, you have better chances of photographing butterflies, because they are just all over the place!

Even though this cannot qualify as a complete weekend ‘get-away’ spot, it definitely is worth the visit!

Getting there: The nearest railway station to Ovalekarwadi is Thane station (Central line). The nearest bus stop is Owala village bus stop. The garden is open only on Sundays from 7.30 am to 1.30 pm.

Adithi Muralidhar currently works in the field of science education research, in Mumbai. She is associated with Hypnale Research Station where she assists with various environment, wildlife conservation, education and community-related projects. She is a strong advocate of nature education.

Green hangouts is a series of stories celebrating Mumbai’s place in the green scheme of things, to coincide with Wildlife Week, which is celebrated from October 1 to 7 every year. 

(Featured image by Bandana Thakur. Image shows a male Gaudy Baron butterfly)

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An office in the middle of a forest: CEC

This might be one of the coolest office spaces in Mumbai – CEC in Goregaon is located in the wilderness!
by Adithi Muralidhar

Part 4 of the ‘Green Hangouts’ diaries

The education wing of the Bombay Natural History Society (BNHS) is located in the wilderness that lies between Sanjay Gandhi National Park and Film city, Goregaon. The Conservation Education Center (CEC) is situated in a 33-acre spread of forest which also includes some nature trails. If you live in the western suburbs, particularly close to Goregaon, CEC could become your regular weekend retreat.

CEC-2-AdithiWhat’s so special? When one makes their way into Film City, you will come across the sets of various saas-bahu serials, and you might think, where the hell is this CEC? Thanks to the film crew, a fair amount of rubbish can be seen strewn on the roads. But once you go past the last cluster of film sets that appear after the signboard that says ‘BNHS 450 m’, you see some beautiful forests and hear some amazing bird calls. And right there, in the midst of the forest lies this somewhat old building hidden well in the thickets of the canopy. A gate that says BNHS-CECBeware of Leopards, welcomes you.

Staffed with just a handful of people, CEC might be one of the coolest offices (in terms of the location) in Mumbai. During one of my recent visits to CEC, a friend of mine who works there showed me a carcass of dog on a tree that was right outside the CEC office building. The neighbourhood friendly leopard had made her way this side of the forest with a happy meal (of the dog) but then left it halfway for reasons unknown. And yes, leopards are common to this area, with sightings restricted usually to dawn, dusk and night times. They tend to steer clear of human beings and are not sighted very often.

Lots to see and hear. But the summer season apparently yields wonderful sightings of spotted deer, barking deer and wild boars who visit the water bodies near CEC to quench their thirst.  And it is during this season that the ever-elusive thirsty leopards let down their guard and come to the water hole.

It is a wonderful place to learn about butterflies and birds. Apart from this, the forests that surround CEC are a treasure trove of insects!  During the monsoons, there is a crisscross of streams that run through the forests which is an absolute delight!

Since the Centre’s main aim is to spread awareness among the masses, they have a wide range of programmes that cater to children, youngsters and families. If you also are very cecparticular about going green in your respective offices, CEC has customised programmes and workshops for corporates, too. On some occasions, CEC also organize night camps at their base, and the opportunities to witness “nightlife” in the jungle, whilst in the city is a rare thing! I would definitely recommend that everybody visits this beautiful forest.

CEC celebrated its 20th birthday this year and hopes are set on it becoming a permanent attraction at Film City. Over the years, CEC has made sure that the area surrounding it has remained green and vibrant with wildlife. It is our duty as Mumbaikars to help CEC maintain this thriving habitat.

Getting there: The nearest railway station to CEC is Goregaon (Western line) and the nearest bus stop is Film City. The CEC office is open from 9.30 am to 5.30 pm, Monday through Friday. But depending on the season, there are sometimes weekend programmes at CEC. You can keep yourself updated by checking here: http://www.bnhs.org/education-mainmenu/upcoming-programs-cec.html

Adithi Muralidhar currently works in the field of science education research, in Mumbai. She is associated with Hypnale Research Station where she assists with various environment, wildlife conservation, education and community-related projects. She is a strong advocate of nature education.

Green hangouts is a series of stories celebrating Mumbai’s place in the green scheme of things, to coincide with Wildlife Week, which is celebrated from October 1 to 7 every year. 

(Pictures by Adithi Muralidhar. The author would like to thank Amandeep Kaur, education officer at CEC, for her inputs in writing this piece.)

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Seeing colours at the jetty

Sewri Jetty may not be picturesque, but the ‘flying visitors’ to the area make it a hell of a spot.
by Adithi Muralidhar

Part 3 of the ‘Green Hangouts’ diaries

Sewri-This isn’t exactly a “green” place…but the colours of nature offered here pretty much compensate for the lack of green in the area. The Sewri jetty might come across as a dirty, icky place to visit, but this area harbours a unique type of habitat called the ‘mudflats’. Mudflats are basically coastal wetlands that are formed when mud, silt, animal detritus and clay are deposited by tides or rivers. Since most of the mudflats lie within the inter-tidal zone, they are exposed twice a day based on the tide timings.

Flamingo city: The Sewri bay has become a hangout for thousands of flamingos that arrive here in the month of October and stay till the March of the next year. Commonly known as the ‘Flamingo fest’, these migrants attract thousands of nature lovers to Sewri each year. Every year, around 15,000 flamingos come to Sewri. I have personally experienced how the sky turns pink because of the flying flamingos.

Apart from these majestic pink-feathered beauties, one can even find a large number of waders in the area – close to 30 species! Around 40 per cent of all bird species recorded in Mumbai have been sighted at the Sewri Bay. The regular winter visitors include Herons, Egrets, Plovers, Curlew, Whimbrel, Godwits, Sandpipers, Gulls, Terns, Ibis, etc.

It is particularly important that this place gets ‘noticed’, since it faces several immediate threats. Apart from the fact that the area is heavily polluted with discharge from the nearby industries, imminent infrastructure projects can lead to habitat destruction. So, if not for a retreat, I would urge Mumbaikars to just go and experience the sheer joy of watching 15,000 pink birds docking at the mudflats, a few months of every year, feasting away to glory !

Getting there: The place is fairly easy to reach. It is a walking distance from Sewri station. TheNearest railway station to Sewri Jetty is Sewri Station (Harbour line)sewri

But a heads-up to all you girls – go in groups. It is not the safest of places to be going alone or in pairs. A lot of trucks are parked on the road and at times, you may come across some shady characters on that stretch of road. But I would say it is relatively safe as many people are aware that the flamingos attract thousands of visitors, so you might even find the locals there helping you find your way to the jetty. Also, make sure you have a good pair of binoculars on you when you go here. During the low tide, the flamingos can be as close as 20 feet from you…but it is better to keep a decent pair of binoculars handy in case you want to get a better look.

Adithi Muralidhar currently works in the field of science education research, in Mumbai. She is associated with Hypnale Research Station where she assists with various environment, wildlife conservation, education and community-related projects. She is a strong advocate of nature education.

Green hangouts is a series of stories celebrating Mumbai’s place in the green scheme of things, to coincide with Wildlife Week, which is celebrated from October 1 to 7 every year. 

(Pictures by Adithi Muralidhar. Reference: http://www.kolkatabirds.com/sewriclist.htm)

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