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‘Blind copying is not exemplary or inspirational’

Veteran architect Dulal Mukherjee talks about his exciting new project – it is the country’s biggest convention centre in Kolkata.
by Subhasis Chatterjee

All good artistes have a strong inspiration, and Kolkata-based Dulal Mukherjee is no different. The famous architect confesses to designing from the heart and being inspired by the vastness and the majesty of nature. His designs, he says, have always tried to be “embellishments in the wide canvas of the Earth’s natural beauty.”

The Metrognome caught up with Dulal on the sidelines of his firm’s current project – the State Convention Centre in Kolkata, the country’s biggest such centre thus far. Over a freewheeling chat, Dulal talks of his work ethic, his wonderful journey since the upheavals of the 70, why nature matters in his work and what future architects need to watch out for.

Excerpts from the interview:

Tell us about your firm and its journey.

An award won for the interior work of the International Terminal of Kolkata Airport at the National Design Competition served as a catalyst in setting up the firm Dulal Mukherjee & Associates (DMA) in 1968.

Those were the times of great political turmoil in Bengal, which affected the architectural fraternity also as there was hardly any scope for any significant work. The firm survived its initial years by Bharat Sevashram Hospital, Jokaundertaking various interior designing projects. The situation, however, started changing for the better from 1972 as building activity in the city slowly started regaining its footing. DMA, which had so far been a fledgling firm, started branching out, although mostly in ownership apartment designing.

After the 70s, we did a lot of Government and institutional projects, and the building boom of the late 80s and early 90s gave us an opportunity to grow and further spread our wings. We have done prestigious projects like the State Legislative Assembly Complex in Dispur, Assam, and the State Convention Centre in New Town, Kolkata.

While running your firm since 1968, you must have seen and experienced a lot of change in the Indian architectural scenario. How would you explain these changes?

During my formative days as a student of architecture and as a young practicing architect, the Indian architectural scenario was ruled by the ilk of Charles Correa, BV Doshi and Achyut Kanvinde. Though influenced by international stalwarts like Le Corbusier and Louis Kahn, Correa, Doshi and Kanvinde brought in an Indian flavour that left an indelible stamp of creativity and spawned a new modern Indian architecture.

State Legislative Assembly Building, Guwahati, AssamUse of concrete in its bold, majestic form and softened by use of Indian elements like jalis, hanging balconies and punched out courtyards were there to stay for decades to come and was carried forward on the able shoulders of Raj Rewal, Uttam Jain and Ajoy Chowdhury. These were examples of inspirational architecture in the late 60s and 70s. Side by side, a mundane match box like architecture with use of hackneyed screens was mushrooming out in a desperate bid for urbanization in India.

From 1990s, a new style gradually emerged, that were more contemporary and international though with an individualistic stamp in the works of Sumit Ghosh, Sanjay Puri and Sanjay Mohe. The styles of Shirish Beri, Dean DeCruz and Gerard Da Cunha had infused a sense of local flavour typical of a region that was wholly individualistic.

The new age of ‘camouflaged architecture’ was brought in from the new millennium with extensive use of curtain walls, glass screens and aluminium cladding. Broken and sculptural forms found importance but the entire trend is very international that transcends all geographic barriers and culture. Use of cutting edge technology both in the constructional system as well as in the designing of the engineering services has found more predominance.

You are a firm believer in celebrating Earth’s natural beauty and that is always reflected in your work. Considering today’s demands, how far can you stick to your architectural philosophy?  

I grew up amidst lush green rural settings of the Dooars in North Bengal which infused in me a deep sense of reverence and inspiration from nature. Even in the present day, with the need for maximum utilisation in the face of plummeting land cost, I try to create my buildings in harmony with nature. The site constraints with regard to existing trees and natural contours are respected in my solutions, and I try to create my designed spaces around the existing flora. Natural contours are respected to preserve the quality of the top soil and in the absence of existing flora; greenery is created both through ground level and terrace level landscaping.

Which one of your projects is closest to your heart? What kinds of projects you are handling these days?

I am really excited about the current projects we are handling. A project, close to my heart, is the Assam State Legislative Assembly complex in Dispur, which I’ve won in a competition. It is a State icon and we’re taking pains to research the local architectural style, the materials and culture such that they are reflected in the design.

Another inspirational project is the proposed State Convention Centre in New Town, Kolkata. The design boasts of the largest convention hall in the country with a sizeable hospitality facility.

I do not have any particular preference while choosing a project as I find all solution process a great stimulus.

Can you share details of the state convention centre project in New Town?

With a built-up area of 64,360 square metre, the State Convention Centre for HIDCO at New Town campus comprises the main Convention Hall of 3,000 seating capacity, two smaller capacity Proposed Drawing of State Convention Centreauditoriums, four large exhibition halls including a State banquet, spacious pre-function areas, extensive food and beverage facilities and a garden food court (in pic on right).

The business hotel will comprise a business centre, 100 twin-bedded rooms, a business club and a spa with a roof top pool. The convention centre will have a multilevel parking block.

The Rs 250 crore project is being developed as a ‘green’ building project with all modern amenities and services like HVAC, illumination with LED fixtures and auto control, dual plumbing, audio visual systems, fire detection and suppression system, CCTV, security and surveillance and IBMS.

While executing a project, what are you keen to concentrate on?

I am very sensitive towards an environmentally-conscious architecture and feel it’s a predominant factor during scheme development. My designs strive to establish a relation between the interior and exterior such that there is complete harmony between the built and unbuilt. Respecting the local climatic and environmental constraints helps in the seamless co-existence of man’s creation with nature.

Have you ever noticed differences working in Kolkata, compared to other parts of the country or abroad?

My experience is restricted within this country though I’ve executed projects in Nepal. The experience in Kolkata is very similar to those in other parts of the country where construction technology is limited and restricted to a very limited number of agencies working at a national level. Sluggish work culture is prevalent everywhere, though it has definitely improved in recent years. We are definitely lagging behind our counterparts in the West with respect to technology adaptation and discipline.

How are you inspired at this age to design and create landmark structures one after another?

I am never content or satisfied with what I do at present. My intrinsic dissatisfaction nudges me towards something better in future. I am of the strongest opinion that whatever I have created in the past can be always improved upon and this conviction drives me for greater perfection in the future.

Any message for young architects?

There are quite a few talented architects making their mark in the profession to whom I could only say that there is no end to learning and no shortcut to success. The remarkable creation of our forefathers may be adopted with individual interpretations and local flavours, but blind copying is neither exemplary nor inspirational for the future generation.

 (All pictures courtesy Dulal Mukherjee Associates)  

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Kuchh ‘Kaas’ hai…

A Mumbai boy went to Kaas Pathar and was thankful for the beauty and the clean air. And the flowers, of course.
by Salil Jayakar | @Salilicious on Twitter

I first heard about Kaas ‘Valley of flowers’ some months ago when I met @neetakolhatkar over lunch. She was off on one of her trips (yet again) and Kaas was where she was headed. I didn’t register much about the place except that it was near Satara in Maharashtra. Come August and a friend messaged to ask if I was keen on doing a day trip to the Kaas ‘Valley of flowers’… and I jumped at the opportunity.

kaas 14 - koyna lakeContrary to its popular nickname – Valley of flowers – Kaas is actually a plateau and is known as Kaas Pathar. Situated in Maharashtra’s Sahyadri Hills, about 25 km from Satara, the Kaas Plateau is fast becoming a must-visit place for nature lovers. In September, as the monsoon nears its end, the entire plateau is covered with a carpet of flowers in every possible hue – from red and purple, to blue, yellow, orange and white. Kaas Pathar is part of the Western Ghats and a UNESCO Biodiversity World Heritage Site.

Since Satara is a fairly long drive from Bombay, I decided to head to Pune on Saturday and spend the night there. The next morning, I joined a bunch of enthusiastic nature lovers and we were off to Kaas by bus. Pune to Kaas is almost five hours – so be prepared for a longish, uncomfortable bus ride over some not-so great roads once you hit Satara city.

As you approach Kaas you can’t but be taken in by the beauty of the Sahyadri Hills and Western Ghats. The September sky was clear with just a hint of grey and rain, the countryside was bursting with shades of green and the air was crisp and clear. A rare experience for the city-born-and-bred me. We stopped along the way to rest our legs and look at some pretty yellow flowers that had bloomed on both sides of the road. In the distance, the Koyna River gently meandered through the valley below.

The main Kaas plateau has been divided into two distinct zones – the tourist zone on the right and the protected reserve area on the left. A fence marks off both and you can see why this is needed – the tourist zone has several areas of barren land where any kind of growth is just not possible due to the constant footfalls. This habitat destruction has increased over the last couple of years and the local Forest Department is doing all it can to minimise the damage. Since we were there mid-September, all the flowers were not in bloom yet. So except for scattered patches there wasn’t a ‘carpet’ of flowers as such. A beautiful sight, nonetheless.

Once you’re on the plateau, follow the local guide along the marked out paths and try to keep up as they talk about the various flowers and plants. I’m ashamed to say that though I studied Botany kaas 13 - the tiny shield-tail snakeat Uni I couldn’t recognise more than a couple of flowers… *hangs head in shame*. By far the more exciting flowers are Sita’s Tear (I think), a type of fly-trap and the Utricularia – a lovely purple flower that dominated the landscape. I was more excited when a naturist spotted and caught a tiny Shield-tail snake! (in pic on right)

The guided tour over, you’re more or less free to walk around take pictures and watch the world go by. On the way back, if time permits, stop at the Thoseghar Waterfall, which can be seen from a viewing area nearby. Don’t forget the mandatory selfie with the Falls as a backdrop.

Heading back to Mumbai via Pune, I was glad I made the weekend trip to Kaas. After all, it’s not often I get a chance to head out of the city and breathe in some fresh country air.

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Hey, Hampi!

A Mumbaikar adds to his list of solitary India travels with a trip to Hampi, land of fables and architecture.
salilby Salil Jayakar | @Salilicious on Twitter

2014 has been a year of some travel-related firsts for me. My first long-distance overnight train journey, my first time on a non AC State Transport bus and now my first long-distance (somewhat) overnight bus journey, sleeper no less!

The ruins of Hampi, part of the ancient Vijaynagara Empire and a UNESCO World Heritage site, have always fascinated me. Last year, a trip over the long Independence Day weekend came to naught when my friend in namma Bengaluru decided to go out of town with her family. Thankfully, this year, over the long I-Day weekend (August 14-18), I finally found myself among the magnificent ruins of Hampi.

After spending a relatively chilled out day in Bengaluru eating home-cooked fish and taking time out to watch a movie, I finally made my way to Majestic (bus stand). The traffic drove me insane, incessant rain added to my irritation and the fact that my bus was delayed for over an hour added to my woes.

The best was yet to come. The ignoramus that I am, I had booked a window sleeper, which meant I was sleeping next to a stranger with less than 10 feet (or maybe lesser) head space. There was little room to sit up. The nearly seven hour journey to Hospet was uncomfortable (to say the least) thanks to the bus’s constant swaying and bumping on an uneven road. As we neared Hospet on the morning of August 15, village after village in rural Karnataka was decked out as if for a party! Mostly, school kids dressed as leaders of the Indian freedom movement held forth as boy and girl scouts did a parade.

A 40-minute rickshaw ride later, I was in Hampi. A flood warning meant that the Tungabhadra had risen and boats were not crossing over to the Anjeyanadri side where my resort was. As I walked through the bazaar, the Virupaksha Temple dominating the landscape, a local offered me a room. For Rs 700 a night I got a double bed with an attached toilet-bathroom, cold running water, no blankets and a solitary tube light. Beggars can’t be choosers…right said, they.

But I was in Hampi! J

A cold bucket bath and some 20 minutes later, I was ready to conquer the world. Well, almost. At the end of the small path, which led to my rooms, was a corner shop where ‘coffee amma’ sat, making endless cups of coffee through the day for locals and tourists alike, all with a smile. A cuppa later, I made my way to the main bazaar where for a meagre Rs 30 I had three idlis and two fried vadas with authentic coconut chutney for breakfast.

Since I had only two days in Hampi, I decided to hire a rickshaw to cover as much ground as I could, quickly. My driver Hanuman, a local, also doubled as a guide, though I must confess that he mumbled and that his broken Hindi meant that I really didn’t understand much. First up was the Vitthala Temple complex, possibly the grandest and most popular of the Hampi ruins, which is home to the world-famous musical pillars. The temple’s pillars have beautifully carved images from Hindu mythology and also from the time when Hampi was a trading city. Among the more detailed images are the ones of Persian traders selling horses to the local king. Along the road that leads to the Vitthala Temple, ruins of the old market can still be seen. The complex is home to one of three world-famous stone chariots – the other two being in Konark and Mahabalipuram. The chariot houses an image of Garuda, the vehicle of Vishnu. I learnt that till some years ago, the wheels of the chariot could be moved. Interestingly, not one of the many curio shops had a stone chariot souvenir.

At walking distance from the Vitthala Temple is the King’s Balance and the Tungabhadra River, where you can see remains of an ancient stone bridge that connected Hampi to Anegundi. On the banks of the river is the Purandara Mantapa, the place where the wandering minstrel Purandara Dasa stayed.

Among the more interesting structures at Hampi was the Mahanavami Dibba, a pyramidal, three tiered stone platform located within the Royal Enclosure. Built in granite, it is stunning. Each tier of the platform has sculptured mouldings in the typical Vijaynagara style of architecture. From the top of the platform, the Royal Enclosure stretches out in all directions, scattered with ruins of what were once palaces, administrative buildings and temples. Undoubtedly the temple of royal patronage, the Hazara Rama Temple is dedicated to Vishnu in his avatar as Rama. Sculpted friezes depicting the Ramayana run all around the main shrine, as well as narrative sculptures on Luv-Kush, the children of Ram, and Bala Krishna.

Given the sheer number of ruins scattered across Hampi, it is almost next to impossible to prepare a laundry list of the ones to visit. But the ones that I have written about so far are definitely not to be missed for their artistic grandeur, which is still visible centuries later.

As the sun began to set on Day One in Hampi, I made my way to Hemakuta Hill, dotted with numerous shrines and mandapas. Here, the magnificent monolithic, four-armed Sasivekalu (mustard seed) Ganesha, at 2.4 metres in height, towers above visitors. The elevated Hemakuta Hill offers a sweeping view of Hampi in all directions. At the Hill’s Sunset Point, I let my legs dangle over the edge of a two tiered mandapa and watched the world go by. I had a friendly chat with two lovely girls who were backpacking across India after completing their undergraduate degrees in Wales. They were heading home to London (damn!) to pursue their Master’s in Audiology. And my heart skipped a beat with love and longing…as I watched the sun go down on what was once the great Vijaynagara Empire.

Day Two began bright and early. I checked out of my squalid room and made my way to coffee amma’s shop. The ever-smiling ‘amma’ allowed me to keep my travel bag at her shop while I roamed through Hampi. A quick walk down the river bank and a hot breakfast of poori-bhaji later, I made my way to the Virupaksha Temple. The heart of Hampi, the temple was abuzz with visitors even at 8 am due to the long I-Day holiday weekend. Extended in the 13th and 17th centuries, it predates the Empire, has two magnificent gopurams or ornate towers that dominate Hampi’s landscape and is dedicated to Shiva and Pampa, his consort and a local deity. I was quite happy to walk through the temple courtyard, take darshan and then squeal (not literally) in joy as the temple’s resident elephant made an appearance! I love elephants, there is something about these gentle giants that captures my imagination. Quite unlike me, I waited patiently to be “blessed” – I offered a ten rupee note to the pachyderm, who promptly took it in its trunk, gave it to the keeper and then placed its trunk over my head. Truly, blessed.

I stepped out of the temple complex and took the dusty road opposite it that leads to a monolithic Nandi. Just before it, a small path to the left leads down to the river from where you can walk along its banks. At one point, the path ends turns inward into the rocky cliff side to come out under an outcrop – you’d think it’s a secret tunnel you read about in an Enid Blyton story. From here, follow the path till you come to the magnificent Achyutaraya Temple at the foot of the Matanga Hill. Sitting desolate in a vast expanse, with mandapas on either side, walk towards its imposing mahadwara. The grounds and the mandapas were home to a weekly bazaar where traders, both Indian and foreigners, came to trade their goods.

With more than half a day still left, I decided to make the road trip from Hampi to Anegundi on the other side of the Tungabhadra. Along the way, as you meander through the winding hill roads, the ruins of Hampi can be seen across the river. But by far the most stunning view of Hampi is from the top of Anjaneya Hill, where there is a temple dedicated to Hanuman, the monkey god. Now, I’m always up for a good trek but the steep climb to the temple – almost 600 steps – took the wind out of me. But the view more than made up for it!

Like I’ve mentioned earlier, it is next to impossible to describe each of the ruins I visited but there are some you just cannot miss. Some of these include the zanana enclosure, the Lotus Mahal and the elephant’s stables, the prasanna Virupakhsa (underground Shiva temple), the Lakshmi Narasimha Temple and the Krishna Temple.

As sunset came, I made my way to Hampi bazaar for some last-minute curio shopping and a quick meal at the Mango Tree restaurant. One last cup of coffee later from coffee amma, I was on the bus back to Hospet. My fondest and most vivid memory? Sitting on Hemakuta Hill and watching the sun go down on what was once the glorious Vijayanagara Empire.

(All pictures courtesy Salil Jayakar)

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Snorkelling in the middle of nowhere

You wouldn’t normally associate underwater sports with Egypt, but Sharm-el-Sheikh city is full of surprises – and it’s a work-in-progress.
by Sujata Garimella

A visit to Egypt is on the wish list of almost every person who likes travelling. Who is not fascinated by the Pyramids and the Sphinx which have firmly stayed in the Seven Wonders of the World for decades now? Then of course there are the famed temples, especially the ones at Abu Simbal (the ones with those HUGE statues) and the one at Luxor dedicated to the Sun God, Ra.

In fact the Luxor temple marks the first foray by a Pharaoh into monotheism. Like most ancient civilisations, Egypt, in the olden days was polytheist with a large number of Gods and Goddesses that they venerated. (Now, of course, it is a monotheistic Islamic country.) Along with all this history and culture, the Nile also found a place of honour for being the longest river in the world. Amidst the history, culture and geographical excitement (besides the Nile, there is also the Sahar desert) that Egypt offered there seemed little place for anything more. But the Egyptians surprised me with Sharm-el-Sheikh.

How it changed complexion

Picture 899Sharm-el-Sheikh until recently was not a part of any Egyptian travellers’ odyssey through the country. Nestled by the Sinai range, it was a in a tension-filled area bordering Israel. Sinai has towering religious significance – one of the hills in this range is where Moses received the 10 Commandments. In fact, a church close to the foothills of the mountain houses a fire which is supposed to be the fire from the Burning Bush from which God spoke to Moses. The Old Testament is common to Judaism (Jews), Islam and Christianity, so the Sinai and the Burning Bush are important to three major religions of the world. For a while, Israel even captured Sinai and Sharm-el-Sheikh. Sinai was restored to Egypt in 1982 and that is when Sharm-el-Sheikh started getting developed.

Initially it became a popular venue for Peace Conferences. With Sinai on one side and the gorgeous Red Sea on the other, it soon began attracting a lot of visitors. Today, it has an endless collection of huge resorts of different levels of plushness. As far as I could see, the entire strip on which our resort was, had only massive resorts lined one beside another.

Snorkelling is a huge attraction

Snorkelling in the Red Sea is the biggest attraction of Sharm-el-Sheikh. I went for the whole day trip to the Red Sea. Each group was first picked up from their hotels and taken to a place where we could either rent or buy snorkelling equipment. Then onward to the Red Sea. Embarking on a boat, our travelling quarters for the day, we set sail into the bluest waters I have ever seen. The Red Sea is supposed to appear reddish because of certain algae that grow in it, but the waters were mesmerisingly blue.

There must have been about 20 people onboard, almost all of them European. Three engaging Egyptian boys were our hosts-cum-guides-cum-leaders-cum-life guards. First there was a quick lesson on the types of fish that we would see, followed by underwater signals for appreciation, distress, and help, and we were set. Only one person in the group could speak a European language as well as English – so she had to volunteer as the translator.

Stopping at various spot,s those of the group who wanted to get into the water did and those who didn’t want to or didn’t know swimming (there were those, too) stayed put on the boat enjoying a relaxing day. Even from the top of the boat you could see fish swimming in the sea – the water is that clear. Snacks and lunch are a part of the trip package.

There are no locals here!

Back on mainland, on our way to our resort, I asked the driver whether we could go to a local market. He seemed a little flummoxed. “Where the local people go for shopping,” I Resort in Sharm-el-Sheikhtried. “No local people,” came the surprising reply. Huh? “People only coming from different cities. No one staying here,” he explained. “Then what was there here before the resorts were made?” “Nothing. Desert. Small village. Some tents.” Wow!

I have read about cities being built or developed in the past but being born into a world with established cities I couldn’t quite fathom the concept. So when I hear about Las Vegas being built or Utah being established by the Mormons, there is an intellectual acknowledgement but no real understanding of the concept. Now here I was, travelling in a city that was a work in progress.

I continued the exploratory conversation with a young man in the customer relations department of our resort. He said that there we no locals in Sharm-el-Sheikh (yet). The Egyptians who were working in the resorts and the Red Sea tour operators all belonged to other towns and cities of Egypt. They were provided quarters by their employers (mostly in the premises of the resort itself). Food was also taken care of by the employers. Even doctors were appointed by the employers and they too stayed in the same premises.

So this is how a city gets built. Soon the folks will start getting their families along and resettle in what is still the middle of nowhere. Once there are people, traders will follow to set up markets of groceries, clothes, home essentials etc. Skills and services will then be required – plumbing, electricians, doctors et al, and they too will be drawn in. With families staying there, schools and other educational facilities will become essential services and find place. And within a decade or two, no one will ever know that this is a planned city that was only built to attract tourists.

Flying out of Sharm-el-Sheikh, I looked long at the twinkling city that consisted entirely of hugely lit-up resorts and marvelled at this ‘work in progress’.

(Pictures courtesy Sujata Garimella)

 

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Cambodian surprise

A Mumbaikar goes off the beaten path to Cambodia, and comes away impressed by its friendly people and overall beauty.
by Sujata Garimella

Who hasn’t been fascinated by the exquisitely wild temples in Lara Croft: The Tomb Raider? Cambodia captured the world’s imagination with that movie. Angelina Jolie did more for making the country known than any other person not only via the movie but also by her high-profile adoption of a Cambodian boy (Maddox) around that time. Having got on to the international consciousness, Cambodia got a further fillip with the United Nations and their work with landmine victims/survivors in the country. This was publicity, albeit of the unsavoury kind – but hey, no news is bad news. Between these two, Cambodia became a beacon for the adventure-hungry and the sympathy-pourers and soon became the world’s most visited ‘off-beat’ destination.

My fascination with Cambodia started a few decades earlier, with the cover of a Reader’s Digest Travel book. The cover had a huge stone structure of a face facing four directions. Having noted that this was in Cambodia, the country piqued my interest. Over the years, other tidbits flowed into my consciousness: Angkor Wat in Cambodia was a Hindu Temple; Angkor Wat is the largest Hindu Temple complex and monument in the world; Angkor Wat is not only the largest Hindu Temple complex and monument, it is also the largest religious complex and monument in the world. Yes, most of the nuggets had to do with Angkor Wat but what was even more curious was: how did Hinduism find its way to such a distant land without war or occupation?

A visit to Cambodia was on the top of my bucket list, for sure. When this happened, it was probably the most exciting trip of my life. Since I was travelling with my mother, I went there not as a traveller but as a tourist i.e. it was not a backpacking-adventure-exploration kind of trip, but a planned, comfortable one.

Getting there

Siem Reap AirportDisembarking at Siam Reap, where Angkor Wat is, was thrilling. It helped that the airport was built in a quaint fashion instead of the normal tall steel-and-glass buildings (see pic on left). It is also at the airport that I got to know that Cambodia offers visa on arrival. (Since these rules keep changing it is best to recheck before you visit and always safer to travel with a visa from your home country.)

Checking into the hotel was pain-free and the Cambodians were refreshingly friendly. With tourism being the mainstay of the economy of Siam Reap, most people speak English and are very welcoming of tourists. The downside of any place existing on tourism (whether Cambodia or Egypt) is the expectation and tacit demand for tips. Be prepared and be ready. While you can exchange dollars for the local currency (Riel) at the airport, Cambodians always quote prices in dollars to tourists. In fact, they shy away from accepting their local currency from tourists.

Discovering the place

There was only half a day left after check-in and negotiation with a tourist guide-cum-driver for hiring the car for the entire duration of the stay so visiting the temples was out for that day. On probing, the driver mentioned a floating village that we could visit. At a cost of $30 dollars (a rip-off because I have since learnt that this is available for $15) we were set. Reaching the embarkation point, we were given a huge boat. The boatman also doubled as a guide and we set off in a narrow waterway.

The ‘lake’ was a narrow-gauge waterway; the water, brown and dirty. The boatman pointed out a floating school and a floating basketball court. Just when we were laughing at ourselves and the ‘floating village’ that we were passing by the water opened up into a vast, seemingly endless water body – the Tonle Sap Great Lake Basin. It was a breathtaking sight. Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. The boatman claimed that this lake was fed by rivers from three countries. While this may not be entirely true, it is a fact that its upstream drainage basin spans five countries. He pointed out a notional line in the water (like our Mac Mohan Line with China) stating that from that point it was Vietnam.

We glided through a village in the water complete with houses, stores, a restaurant and a church in speechless wonder. The villagers used coracles or large plastic and aluminium Floating Village_bowls as their medium of transport. Since we were there in the evening, we were treated to a wonderful sunset, too. On the return journey, the narrow waterway didn’t seem as dirty anymore – the human mind surely is wonderful!

Disembarking brought another surprise. Three or four people swarmed around us with saucer-pictures of us. They took our pictures between the time we got off and to the point we set off, chose the ones that were most clear and printed them on the saucers by the time we came back. Since this was a novelty to me, after some hard bargaining, I bought all three for about $4.

While Angkor Wat, Bayon and the outstanding temple of the tree are spectacular, a trip to Siam Reap would be incomplete without a visit to Tonle Sap – it is a hidden jewel.

Have you recently taken a trip to a place you always dreamed of going to? Tell us about it at editor@themetrognome.in.

(Pictures courtesy Sujata Garimella)

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In the pursuit of the Buddha

An overnight train journey, the stunning beauty of the Ajanta and Ellora Caves, and some excellent company. What a trip!
by Salil Jayakar | @Salilicious on Twitter

The caves of Ajanta-Ellora in Aurangabad (Maharashtra), both World Heritage sites, have been on my must-visit list for some time now. With a long weekend in March this year, thanks to a pending casual leave (Friday) and the Gudi Padwa holiday (Monday), I finally made the trip.

Having already booked Mumbai-Aurangabad return tickets on the Devgiri Express early February, I was also excited to accomplish my first solo overnight train journey! The approximately seven-hour train ride was incident-free and I arrived weary and sleepy in Aurangabad at about 4 am. Thankfully, my hotel was just two minutes away and I was soon tucked in for a quick nap.

Early next morning, at about 8.30 am, I made my way to Aurangabad’s Central Bus Station from where buses leave for Ajanta at frequent intervals. While I was tempted to go on one of those AC Volvo buses, I eventually chose to take a seat on a Maharashtra State Transport (ST) bus – a Government-run inter-city bus service. And with that, came another first for me – my first ST bus ride! On the bus I met the delightful Debbie from Belgium, and we became travelling companions. On a month-long India holiday, she had decided to spend the last two days of her trip visiting Ajanta-Ellora.

The ST bus ride was not as bad as I had imagined. At some point at the beginning of the journey, the conductor asked me to sit in the driver’s cabin, which was fairly comfortable. The driver drove like he was in a Formula 1 race, the summer sun was hot (about 40 Degrees Celsius) but the wind in my face kept me quite cool. Since the Ajanta Caves are about 100 km from Aurangabad, it’s a good idea to leave for them as early as possible since it takes about three hours to get there. Let me add here that Ajanta and Ellora are two different cave sites, away from each other. You need two separate days to visit them.

Oh, Ajanta!

Forgotten by time for thousands of years, the Buddhist rock caves of Ajanta were discovered by accident in 1819. And what a discovery it was! It is hard to believe that these monastic sanctuaries – hand carved in sold rock – were created at a time when none of today’s modern tools were at the disposal of the creators.

The architectural and sculptural beauty of these rock temples is surpassed, perhaps, by the addition of a third art form – painting – which has only added to Ajanta’s fame. Excavated between the 2nd century BC – the oldest cave dates back to pre-Christian times – and the 6th century AD, the nearly 30 Ajanta Caves were carved in an isolated ravine, which is almost horseshoe in shape. From a guide book I bought, I learnt that the central theme on the walls of these magnificent caves come under two heads – narrative scenes from the Buddha’s life and illustrations of the Jataka fables. Most of the caves have beautifully carved pillars, a large hall and a row of cells on the side, which was where the monks slept.

At the back, framed by a doorway beyond the ante-chamber and opposite the entrance is a huge Buddha. The walls and ceilings illustrate tales from the Buddha’s life. While most of the paint has peeled off, some of the panels have been well preserved and their beauty is there to see. The colours are still quite bright and the detailing is exquisite. Stunning, to say the least! For me, caves 19 and 26 were the most awe inspiring of the lot. Cave 19 has a beautiful and exquisitely carved façade and arched windows that add to its grandeur. The outside walls have several Buddha figures in various positions. Cave 26 has a large reclining Buddha that is nearly 25 feet long. I believe the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho in Bangkok has been inspired by the one at Ajanta, but I can’t verify this. All in all, walking in and out of the various caves at Ajanta is a journey of discovery.

On to Ellora

On day 2, Debbie and I met at 8.30 am at the bus station for breakfast and chai. Debbie enjoys Indian food and we happily tucked into kande pohe and a batata wada before we began our journey. The Ellora Caves are about 30 km from Aurangabad and it takes about an hour to get there. Unlike the Buddhist Ajanta Caves, the Ellora Caves are the product of three religious systems – Buddhism (caves 1-12), Brahmanism (caves 13-29) and Jainism (caves 30-34).

As you enter the Ellora Caves site, cave 16 is the first cave you see but it makes more sense to walk down to your right and start from cave 1. The Buddhist caves at Ellora are quite unlike the ones at Ajanta. Some of them are large, almost three storeys high, and have Buddha figures in the main shrine. Of the 16 Brahmanical caves, the most stunning is cave 16 or the Kailash Temple. Regarded as one of the greatest monolithic structures of the world, the Kailash Temple was cut top-down from a single rock! I think we spent half of our time at Ellora at the Kailash Temple – marvelling at its beauty and grandeur. At this juncture, I must tell you of my love for elephants – and I was fascinated by all the elephant sculptures here. Ganesh or Ganapati, my favourite elephant-headed God also makes an appearance. It also has a Shivaling.

Cave 29 is also a must see. It is one of the largest caves and has three separate entrances with wide columns. On the left, as you enter is a huge Shiva with eight arms (in the form of Kali) killing a demon. On the right, is a huge intricately-carved scene of Shiva-Parvati sitting on top of Mount Kailash even as Ravan tries to lift it. Last, but not the least, are the Jain caves, which have to be accessed by road.

The most prominent ones are caves 30, 32 and 34, of which cave 30 is the chhota Kailash as it is considered to be a smaller version of the Kailash Temple. Cave 32 is known as the Indra Sabha, the assembly hall of Indra – the king of the Gods. It has a huge hall with pillars, each of which has a different design on it! I’d been told that the Ellora Caves can be seen in about two hours but I think we easily spent about four hours seeing all the important ones at length.

Since Debbie had to catch a flight back to Mumbai and then onward to Belgium, we decided to take a rickshaw back to the city (approximately INR 1,000). Our driver, Anees, was born in Ellora and was eager to show us some other sites on the way back. Our first stop was Aurangzeb’s tomb. Aurangzeb was the sixth Mughal Emperor and I expected his tomb to be grand, but the nondescript one I saw was disappointing. Next up was Bibi-ka-Maqbara, the mausoleum of Aurangzeb’s wife. Inspired by Agra’s Taj Mahal, it’s known as the Taj of the Deccan or the poor man’s Taj. If you’ve seen the original Taj, give it a skip. We also decided to give Daulatabad Fort a miss. Walking up 750 steps to reach its top in the scorching heat didn’t excite us!

My weekend trip to the Ajanta and Ellora Caves was more than I could have hoped for. I accomplished a couple of things along the way, saw magnificent works of architecture that are a symbol of what we humans are capable of, and had some friendly company along the way. What more can one ask for?

(Pictures courtesy Salil Jayakar)

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